Home' Smart Farmer : October 2009 Contents OCTOBER, 2009 smartfarmer
shows how easy it is to
give a facelift to your farm's entrance.
This project involved improving the
property frontage in two ways. A basic
vehicular access was created and a dilap-
idated wire fence was replaced with a
simple rail fence. A compact dozer was
used for the job as the blade was perfect
for cutting in the driveway and the
machine had a PTO enabling a post hole
digger to be used.
The entrance had originally been used
for tractor access from the road into a
side paddock.The area has since been
converted into a lawn/garden, with a dry
weather car entrance.
First the dozer was used to strip the
topsoil, which was then spread over the
nature strip to fill in some low points.
Next, a ramp suitable for a car to drive
over was cut in.The sides of the
entrance were given a gentle bank by
tilting the blade to one side.This
prevented the cut from eroding and
made it easier to mow along the nature
strip up to the edge of the driveway.
Removing the topsoil and exposing
the subsoil provided a sound base for
the crushed rock to sit on.
If the rock is placed directly on the
top soil, it tends to sink in and quickly
This access will only have occasional
light traffic so nondescript crushed rock
was used to keep costs down.This
means that the material has had less
'sorting' and there is a mixture of larger
rock, smaller rock and fines. On heavy
traffic driveways it is important to make
the first layer all larger rock (50
millimetre) to prevent it disappearing
into the subsoil. An additional layer of
smaller rock (12mm down to 6mm) can
be laid on top.The smaller rock is
smoother to drive on and tends to bind
in together better.
The crushed rock was laid to a depth
of 100mm.The rock was roughly pushed
into place with the front of the blade.
Then the finishing touches are done by
backblading. As the name suggests this is
done by reversing the dozer and using
the back of the blade to gently distribute
the crushed rock.
Fence and Gate
First the old barbed wire and fence
posts were removed. A chain attached to
the poles and the dozer blade made it
easy to lift out the posts no longer
Once the area was cleared a string line
was used to help keep the new fence
straight. A post hole digger attached to
the back of the dozer was used to dig
the post holes. Holes were dug to a
depth of 600mm and a simple marked
stick was used to confirm depth.
The first post was placed in the hole
and the soil backfilled with a shovel.
Throwing some cement in with the soil
will help keep the posts solid in the
A handy post level was used to check
that the post was vertical side and front
The blunt end of the crowbar was
used to compact the soil to keep the
A second post was put in repeating
the process. Next the distance between
the top of two posts was measured and
the horizontal (rail) was cut to length.
10 mm diameter galvanised steel rods
were used to attach the posts and rails.
Just drill the sides of the posts and ends
of the rails and push it all together.
This process was repeated for the
length of fence required.Then a wire
was run across the top and bottom of
the post using a fence strainer to add
tension.Then a mesh wire was clipped
to the top and bottom wires.
A simple gate was included. A pivot
pin was attached to the bottom of the
post for the gate to swing on and a hook
fitted at the top of the post keeps the
gate in place.The gate is finished off
with the gate latch on the opposite post.
Indulge in a makeover for your farm
1: Use dozer to strip topsoil.
2: Spread crushed rock.
3: Bore holes for posts.
4: Use steel rods to secure posts.
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